Fruit fresh

FRESH FRUIT

Like shad roe and asparagus, fresh fruit tarts are part of the rites of spring. The soft fruits and berries arranged in concentric circles covering a smooth cream, all of this spread inside a rich cookie crust -- a splendid ending to any meal.


Tarte aux fruits, unfortunately, is often just a pretty face. Correctly, the pastry is faintly sweet, buttery, crisp and firm enough to hold the goods; the filling should be creamy and rich but not cloying or floury; the fruits ripe and lightly glazed so they don't dry out, but not glazed enough to disguise any taste. A fresh fruit tart is the true test of a baker's skill.